Download or read book Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms (In 2 Parts) written by Maarten W Dingemans and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1997-01-07 with total page 1015 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts: Part 1 covers primarily linear wave propagation, and Part 2 covers nonlinear wave propagation.